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I Know Why Everyone Hates The Tortured Poets Department (And I Love It)

I am a Taylor Swift fan but not a Swiftie. I have a ticket to see the Eras tour, but only because I was able to purchase one at face value. I have tried to convince a boyfriend, in Paris, that we should dance ’round the kitchen in the refrigerator light, while listening to Taylor Swift sing about doing exactly that, an exercise in imitation that I do not recommend, not least because how is this done? How does the refrigerator door stay open, so that it might shed its light? Do you stand there with one hand on the door and the other hand on your partner’s waist? Do you prop it open with a broom? Do you do this in time for the line to play while you are still dancing, rather than only figure it out in time for “22,” which is a completely different vibe, and not at all appropriate for dancing in a mostly dark kitchen in Paris?

I did not seek out the leaked Tortured Poets Department tracks, or even stay up late on Thursday watching the Spotify countdown timer tick down to zero, but I did listen to the new album on my way to the grocery store on Friday morning. I did not hear the hits! I heard the Post Malone song, and the Florence song, and a bunch of other songs that sounded quite a bit like each other. I walked into Hy-Vee listening to “Fortnight” and walked out with three oranges, two mangoes, and “Cornelia Street” playing through my headphones. I read the NME review, which concluded:

To a Melbourne audience of her Eras Tour, Swift said that ‘The Tortured Poets Department’ came from a “need” to write. It’s just that maybe we didn’t need to hear it.

Was this fair? Yes, I thought. It was fair. I read other, and more personally vexed takes on Reddit, many of which united on a central theme: Taylor had never matured in an appropriate and agreed-upon way of how a person’s maturation should unfold, though whether the blame fell to her status as a cosseted billionaire, or as a cosseted young star — was unknown. This was why she could only write songs about heartache or romantic foibles; no “I’ve been selling my soul working all day / Overtime hours for bullshit pay” from her. The album was not, in fact, about her longtime love, Joe Alwyn, and it would not function as a bookend to the album focused on their promising relationship, Lover. Instead, it was mostly about Matty Healy, of The 1975, the sort of person who says racist things on podcasts and about whom people tweet “What is wrong with this fucking guy” and 4800 people take a second out of their day to agree with them.

Matty and Taylor’s public relationship was brief. They had first connected in 2014, exchanging phone numbers; nine years later, in May 2023 — a month after the public end to the Alwyn relationship — they were photographed together in Nashville. (BTW if you google “matty taylor timeline” you will get 7.25 million results. This is the one I consulted.) The most empathetic comment put the question thusly: What if throughout the sad, slow end of her relationship with Joe Alwyn, Taylor had kept the idea of Matty Healy alive in her heart, a little flame nurtured carefully into a sort of guide light? What if throughout the end of that relationship, she had been led forward not quite into the unknown, but into a more exciting and dynamic and new relationship, with Healy? And what if it all blew up shortly thereafter? It’s the better, longer narrative: Joe was not the end of the story, but only the preamble, the set up to the fairy tale. Only that guy’s kind of a dick, maybe.

Can you imagine the disappointment? The way that that dream had sustained you through the end of a failing relationship, and you get there, only to realize it was vapor?

This, I think, is the disconnect between Taylor and the disappointed listeners in Taylor’s audience when it comes to this album: the incredulity that that guy should have been the cause of all this. He has not been relegated to footnotes. He got the whole fucking thing, and the NY Mag stories like ‘Is The Tortured Poets Department Really About Matty Healy?

The answer, obviously, is yes, and no one likes it, because Matty Healy seems like he sucks, and we’ve all had that friend who wouldn’t stop talking about that guy. The flavor of that guy is different: Maybe he’s not saying shitty things about Ice Spice. Maybe he’s sleeping on his ex-girlfriend’s couch (what?) or says he wants to keep things low-key because he’s moving to a commune in Bali. “That guy?” we say. “Are you serious?”

Long relationships can end with nothing left to say — and, presumably, no songs left to write. The almost-guy relationships, though — you have so much to say! You have so much to say to that guy! To your friends! (“I look unstable, gathered with a coven around a sorceress’ table.”) To anyone who will listen! Because unlike your boyfriend of six years, the almost-guy wasn’t obligated to stay and listen, whether as a matter of courtesy or hope or obligation! The almost-guy felt possibly none of those things! He’s probably got his own stuff to deal with! Of course Taylor is going feral! Of course all these songs sound the same! As all of us who’ve loved and lost an almost-person will know, a huge part of these relationships are spent trying to understand what the fuck just happened! And nearly all 31 songs on this double album are precisely that! Trying to understand how someone just swooped in and destroyed your life and then poofed fucking right off the stage!

In this context, the point is not the hits: The point is the gestalt, the whole; the point is that you can start enter this album like a body of water, travel through different temperatures, and exit it, having only swum through a single body of water. No wonder the album is so replete with references to poetry and writing — I know people criticize her for her prominently, and pridefully, displayed songwriter’s badge, but this is mostly misogyny, and what else was she supposed to do? Run it out? Start a career as a boxer? Throw pottery, move to the ocean? What do people do when they need to metabolize their heartbreak? Taylor is a writer, so she wrote about it: endlessly, discursively, repetitively, beautifully. I love this album. I love that you can swim in it for hours, and that it is telling us the same thing in 100 different ways: He blew her up from the inside out, and she’s still figuring out what the fuck happened.

I am also a writer, and I have written two books. I have had long and substantial relationships, but I have not written about them. My first book, which I wrote in my early 20s, was mostly about a man I dated for a little under two months, and who then slept with my boss. (I say “then,” as if these events were sequential, but I mean “while dating me.”) Why did he do this? Didn’t he ever like me? Didn’t he like me more than Fiona, at least? And if I may quote myself, from a different story, but appropriate here: “The question was not terrible only because it was terrible; it was terrible because she could not solve it, and so she kept asking. It occupied her mind like a song she could not place, played endlessly and at an incredible volume.” 

This album is that process: an investigation, a trial conducted with the accused in absentia, with no hope for justice. At least there seems to be little hope for love in the songs themselves, which is, in my opinion, Taylor’s gift to us, since we all saw what happened after Matty Healy departed the stage. Yes, there are some apparent references to Travis Kelce, including “You know how to ball, I know Aristotle” from “So High School.” But there aren’t many. Maybe TTPD was the album she had to write to get right with herself, and start a new life with a football player. I bet when the next new album comes around, we’ll look back at this one with a sense of loss, and newer, hotter takes on the TTPD-era Taylor, the one who offered us a magnifying glass to dissect her broken heart. I bet her next album with have fun beats, and cool remixes, and very little to say about Travis and their lives together. As every writer knows, you keep the good ones to yourself.

le perchoir 15th

A Running List of the Coolest Places in Paris

What is cool! Everyone’s cool is different from everyone else’s — so when I say this is the list of the coolest places to go in Paris, I definitively mean that it is my list. Ergo: more bookstores than restaurants, more shops than bars. Your list will be different from mine, but I stand by all these picks.

Le Pavillon des Canaux: the sunniest, basin-side café/live music venue in the city. 39 quai de la Loire, 75019

La Recyclerie: Basically the same thing (a combo art space/café/brunch experience), but in the 18th, just below the flea markets at Saint Ouen. 83 bd Ornano, 75018

La Bellevilloise: Maybe one more? A live music/art space with more of a nightclub vibe than the two spots immediately above. 19-21 rue Boyer, 75020

Le Perchoir: This brand has four super-style-y cafés/bars — I love the rooftop one in Menilmontant, but I’m very interested in seeing the new one in the 15th at Porte de Versailles (pictured above), not far from the new Mama Shelter hotel, Mama West. Menilmontant: 14 rue Crespin du Gast, 75011. Porte de Versailles: 2 av. de la Porte de la Plaine

Jacques’ cocktail bar at the Hoxton (very close to the Sézane on rue Saint-Fiacre!). 30-32 rue du Sentier

Yvon Lambert: Artists’ books, art books, magazines, a gallery space, and more — maybe my favorite bookstore in Paris? 14 rue des Filles du Calvaire

0fr: My other favorite bookstore in Paris? More books about art and design, fewer artists’ books. 20 rue Dupetit-Thouars, 75003

Empreintes: Like if all the most beautiful ceramics makers in the world banded together and built their own four-story shop. 5 rue de Picardie, 75003

Café Saint-Regis: I wrote a huge portion of my book here, driving $8 Diet Cokes. 6 rue Jean du Bellay, 75004

Galignani: A half-English, half-French bookstore that has a beautiful gallery of books organized by the author’s country of origin in the back. 224 rue de Rivoli, 75001

Hemingway Bar at the Ritz: Wildly overpriced but still worth it?? 15 pl. Vendôme, 75001

Mmmozza: There are no better sandwiches in Paris (except for those formerly made by the guy with a sandwich shop in the lobby of my old apartment building, who chucked it and went back to Italy. But these are beyond great, too.) 57 rue de Bretagne, 75003

Bouillon Pigalle: A modern take on the traditional cantine, I’m obsessed — the food is both delicious and cheap, by Paris standards. 22 bd de Clichy, 75018

Le Bon Marché: My favorite department store in Paris, and often the site of large installations by leading artists. Equally good for the food hall across the street, La Grande Épicerie. 24 rue de Sèvres, 75007

Merci: Like Empreintes, but with clothing and design objects and super good, location-specific collections. 111 bd Beaumarchais, 75003

Peniche: It’s a boat! It’s a bookstore! It’s a boat! It’s a bookstore! Somehow it also serves brunch! 9 quai de l’Oise, 75019

Palais de Tokyo: I feel like this is definitively the coolest major art space in Paris, though obviously the experience there depends on the quality of whatever exhibition they are presenting. 13 av. du Président Wilson, 75116

Breizh: My go-to for fancy, not-inexpensive crêpes. Several locations

iowa welcome center sign

17 Things to Do in Iowa City

Iowa City is a funny little place: a small city with a major-league cultural side — there’s more than enough to keep you busy while you’re in town, whether it’s for a weekend or a semester. (It’ll help if you like to read.)

Category 1: Activities!

1. Catch an Author Rreading

Iowa City is home to the world-famous Iowa Writers’ Workshop, and as such, it outperforms other mid-sized Midwestern cities (and, to be fair, basically all mid-sized cities, in the world) to an exponential degree in terms of the local literary scene. Big-name writers come through town all the time — whether to teach at the workshop or just to give a reading at the local bookseller, Prairie Lights. Some authors read both at the workshop itself, on campus, and at Prairie Lights — the easiest way to stay up to date on both is their respective Instagram accounts [Prairie Lights Insta // IWW Insta].

2. Go See a Women’s Basketball Game

This will be much, much more exciting the longer No. 22, Caitlin Clark, is in town (at least through the end of the 2023-24 season). Tickets will most likely be sold out, so check your favorite reseller for options. [Iowa Womens’ Basketball Insta]

3. Tailgate a Hawkeyes’ Game.

Saturday afternoons in Iowa City are made for a single thing: watching the beloved Hawkeyes football team. (You’ll know they’re playing because the local Hy-Vee will be silent and downtown will empty out.) Fans set up all around Kinnick Stadium — if you don’t have local friends, just start making your way over there and see who you might meet as you go. You’ll probably also be purchasing from a reseller for Hawkeyes’ home games. [Hawkeyes Football homepage]

4. Read a Book Outside in College Green

Pick up some fruit and a drink at New Pioneer on the way. [New Pioneer Co-op]

5. See the Art at the Stanley

This brand-new art museum, designed by BNIM Iowa, is a credit to Iowa City, as well as the permanent home of a glorious Jackson Pollack, the 1943 “Mural” — its return to the museum, after a nine-year tour of the rest of the world, was sufficiently newsworthy that it was covered by The Wall Street Journal. [Stanley Museum of Art]

6. Catch a Movie at Film Scene

FilmScene is an excellent repertory cinema — as good as any in Paris, and I’ll die on that hill if necessary. Also, the popcorn is excellent (and definitely better than any in Paris). Look for special retrospectives, Q+As or post-film discussions, and visits from filmmakers. Note that there are two locations, one below The Chauncey hotel and the other on the ped mall, about a five minutes’ walk apart. [FilmScene]

englert

7. See a Show at the Englert

Iowa City’s buzziest theater gets most of the bigger names if they come through IC on their tour of the Midwest — and quite good ones too, like Ani Difranco, Rufus Wainwright, Steve Earle, and many others. The biggest book readings often up here, and you’ll find plenty of comics as well.

Category 2: Shopping

8. Iowa-themed Merch at Raygun

Raygun was birthed in a pole barn in Dallas County, Iowa, and now has shops from Chicago to Kansas City to Omaha — as well as this central spot in Iowa City. The local knowledge is evident in most of their products, ranging from tributes to Iowa heroes like Caitlin Clark to in-joke T-shirts about Midwestern weather.

9. The Best Possible Furniture at Ulysses Modern

This cramped shop on South Gilbert Street, near Big Grove, has a super well-curated mix of furniture and clothing, with some real heavyweight design picks — you’ll see a lot of teak/Danish modern; it’s the local go-to for mid-century modern. There’s a huge, and considerably cheaper, vintage clothing collection as well, with lots of locally themed vintage tees.

10. Second-hand Couches, Accessories and More at Crowded Closet

As you’d expect in a college town, Iowa City has tons of huge secondhand shops — Crowded Closet, run by the Mennonites, is generally considered the best of them. It’s certainly the cleanest and best organized, though in my experience it has less large furnishings than some of the others — if you’re looking for a couch, for example, I’d head to the Stuff Etc. in Coralville, which has an interior subterranean floor full of furniture.

11. Some Expensive But Legitimately Good Clothes at Catherine’s

This is a great clothing boutique with the most expensive brands for a 200-mile radius, or exactly however far it is to Chicago. Look for Veja, Alex Mill, Le Jean, and lots of $300 cashmere sweaters.

12. Don’t Forget About the Local Merch!

Don’t leave Iowa City without some local merch. My faves are the T-shirts at George’s (see below) and Film Scene. If you’re looking for Hawkeyes stuff, try the Iowa Book store, on the corner of Clinton and Iowa. Beer lovers may very well be happy with something from Big Grove.

13. Up-and-coming Ceramics Artists at Akar

Akar is very good as a local design shop and exceptional as a ceramics gallery and boutique. Keep an eye on their Instagram for a look at the artists they’re showing. [Akar Insta]

Category 3: The Natural World

central park in johnson county

14. Take a Hike Around Central Park Lake

This was, weirdly, one of my first natural excursions in Iowa — there’s a 25-acre lake, a smaller pond, and five miles of trails through the surrounding countryside. The late-summer wildflowers were very pretty. [County Map]

effigy mounds

15. Go Learn About Effigy Mounds National Monument

One of Iowa’s two National Park sites, this monument is home to more than 200 Indian effigy mounds, of startling distinctiveness, on the bluffs overlooking the Mississippi. About 2.5 hours from Iowa City. [National Park site]

16. Spend the Afternoon at City Pool

OK, so it’s not much more than your average suburban pool, but I’m pretty sure that everyone goes here, and that one of those quiet kids sitting idly on their towel will make a semi-autobiographical film/book/play about all the drama invisible to the adults. [City site]

17. Pick Apples at Wilson’s Orchard

It’s a rite of passage during the fall. [Wilson’s]

pelican

18. Watch for Bald Eagles and Pelicans in the Sspring

I wouldn’t have guessed this before I got there, but Iowa City is a wonderland for amateur birders — you know, people who are still easily awed by the majesty of nature, as emblemized by the bald eagles (who soar over the Iowa River) and pelicans (who flap unsteadily over it, and often swim on it). As a product of the Mid-Atlantic states, I’d never seen pelicans in the wild before — they only visit here briefly, on a pitstop between the Gulf Coast and their summer residences in Minnesota and Canada. I love everything about this paragraph from a story on them, from Little Village:

American white pelicans are about 4 feet tall with a wingspan of about 9 feet. Since they’re one of the heaviest flying birds, they rely on their large wingspan to glide long distances. Their feathers are white, except for the black feathers on the edge of their wings. While they’re good swimmers and flyers, they can have clumsy landings.

As for the eagles: You’ll catch them flying above town. You’ll know them when you see them, and you’ll be glad you did.

lake macbride

19. Dodge Bacteria at Lake Macbride

What would a Midwestern town be without a muddy-bottom lake with occasionally worrying levels of farm fertilizer?

A Year of Blooms in Paris

Paris changes radically depending on its weather, and what’s blooming — or not. Here, you’ll find a quasi-chronological look at the city over the span of seven years, for an anecdotal take on when you’ll see cherry blossoms, fall color, and brilliant flowers at the Jardin des Plantes (noted here as the JDP). While the dates are chronological, the years are all messed up, so you might see cherry trees blooming in late March or mid-April — it just depends on the year.

Something I really noticed is that with sunshine, fall is beautiful here — without it, wow. No one does dreary like northern Europe!

If cherry trees are your thing, I have created a 5.5-kilometer, roughly hour-long walking tour through the very center of Paris (at the bottom of the page), with lots of opportunities for seeing them in bloom.  And if you like roses, there’s nowhere better than the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne, just outside Paris in L’Haÿ-les-Roses, and absolutely spectacular when they’re in bloom.

Scroll down, or you can jump to the month in question right here:

January February March April
May June July August
September October November

January

first mimosa in paris

February

bois de boulogne

March

cherry trees

hyacinths in paris

April

white cherry blossoms

cherry blossoms in the 5th

parmain trees

 

wisteria

cherries square du temple

May

full spring

June

Roseraie du Val-de-Marne

Roseraie du Val-de-Marne

late springs

jardin luxembourg

July

calendula

marguerite daisies

August

zinnias

neo dahlias

fall color

September

dark leafed dahlias

October

october trees

fall flowers

october flowers

fall seine

fall seine

orchid lace dahlias

mid fall

chateau de maisons

seine trees

November

fall color

november colors

late fall

mums at mairie du 12eme

fall dreariness

gare de l'est park

olympics tax

So What’s the Story With the “Olympics Tax” in Paris — AKA the Hotel Tax?

Paris loves taxes. Loves them! They (literally) make the trains run on time, and fund the libraries, and support that wild and expansive social safety net we Americans keep hearing about. Now, with the Olympics coming up, those taxes are going up — at least one of them will definitely impact your credit card statement if you’ll be staying in Paris this year. The hotel tax — known in some quarters as tourist taxes, the taxe de séjour, and also as the Olympics tax — is going up.

Visitors to Paris have already been surprised to see these higher-than-usual taxes on their bills — but the Olympics tax does not, of course, wait for the Olympics. Rather, they came into effect on January 1, 2024. In 2023, the nightly hotel tax started at €1 for one-star hotels, holiday villages, guest rooms and hostels, rising to €5 for “palace”-level establishments, like Le Bristol and the Four Seasons George V.

Now, the cheapest tier is €2.60, while the palace level is €14.95 — and those are all calculated per night, not per stay. If you’re bunking at the Four Seasons, an extra €100 on the bill at the end of the week might not matter much, when you’re paying €1200 a night for the room — but for all of us staying in two-star hotels, an extra €3.25 per night could register as an unpleasant little surprise. [See here for a complete breakdown of all the price increases, at each level of accommodation.]

Of course, this is totally separate from the (much) higher hotel room rates you’ll see from late July through mid-August, when the XXXIII Olympic Summer Games kick off in Paris. (Specifically, from July 26 – August 11.) Quite average one-bedroom Airbnbs are now fetching $500 per night, while five-star hotels like the Barrière Group’s Fouquet’s Paris is nothing short of $6,000 per night — if they have availability for your dates. (Maybe that extra €14.95 supplement per night isn’t the worst thing about staying in Paris this summer.) And we’ll note it’s part of a larger trend that is not at all specific to France, with perennially oversubscribed destinations like Amsterdam, Iceland and Venice in varying stages of considering-to-implementing similarly sizable tourist taxes — and they’re not even hosting the Olympics.

aruba eagle beach view

Ask a Traveler: A Safe, Low-Key Spring Break

In this week’s Ask a Traveler, we have a letter-writer in need of a low-key spring break with sandy beaches, a direct flight from New York, and, ideally, a Hilton points-friendly hotel. Our suggestion involves burrowing owls, a 19th-century gold mine, world-class windsurfing, and more. If you have a travel dilemma, please send it to me! The more parameters of travel desire, the better.

Hello! 

I’m looking for a spring break destination for me and my boyfriend, both tired and cold New Yorkers just hoping to spend a few days getting sunburned on a beach. I’m hoping for a warm-weather destination where you can stay somewhere nice without it being crazy expensive — I’m not interested in places like St. Barts or Anguilla. We’d also like to avoid all-inclusive resorts where the resort is really beautiful but you’ll never leave the resort and if you do it can be sort of stressy. We definitely want something beachfront, even if it means paying a little more. We don’t mind a big, corporate hotel for this trip — actually, extra credit if you can find something where I can use my Hilton Honors points. I’d like to stay somewhere we feel safe away from the hotel. 

M. Read More

interior of paris apartment

11 Big Problems With Your Paris Airbnb

Planning to rent a Parisian Airbnb this summer? Coming for the Olympics, or the art, or the food? Parisian Airbnbs come with their own specific set of challenges: size, access, and more. Here, a run-down on a few of the most common concerns for living à la française — from burglars swooping down from the rooftop to seven-floor buildings without an elevator in sight.

(Here’s a link to the Airbnb shown above.)

1. Am I Going to Be Burgled?
Violent crime is rare within Paris’s city limits, at least compared to similarly sized American cities, but property crime is not. (My building, with nine apartments and in a very nice part of town, has had nearly a half-dozen break-ins in the past 18 months.) This problem is most apparent in late summer, when Parisians go on vacation and thieves…do not. Keep valuables well out of sight and always close and lock your windows when you leave — and don’t assume (as I did) that a top-floor apartment means you’re out of danger, since many break-ins are launched from the roof.

2. What Time Do Renovations Start?
Many Parisian apartment buildings are hundreds of years old, which means that renovations in neighboring apartments are a fact of life. Obviously, this being France, there are strict rules about when construction can start and stop to maintain general public health — in my building, drilling started at precisely every morning at 8:15 a.m. for three months. If you’re staying for a while, it might be worth asking the owner if renovations are forecast for the time you’ll be there.

3. How Much Does a Lost Key Cost?
Paris locksmiths who advertise on the flyers distributed in vestibules and entryways are sometimes fronted by cheats and scammers, who’ll accompany you to an ATM and empty it out, charging €3000 to let you into your apartment. This is why you’ll see Parisians sleeping in front of their apartment doors sometimes, waiting until morning (or a Monday) to call the local locksmith. Homeowners’ policies can greatly reduce this fee, and some providers of rental insurance have deals with local locksmiths for service.

4. How Small Is This Apartment?
Even more than in the U.S., French apartments are listed according to their square meterage — it’s the primary unit of measure, as much as whether the apartment is a studio or one-bedroom, etc. If the Airbnb listing doesn’t mention it, the lister should be able to provide the figure. Google can handle the calculation between square meters and square feet — note that you’ll often see this noted as something like “50m2” — 50 mètres carrés, or 50 square meters, or 538 square feet. Parisian apartments have a reputation for their small size, though I think they’re not too different from those in New York (to name another city with a reputation for small apartments). For a quick conversion, add a zero to the square meters to get square feet — it’ll get you close.

5. Why Are The Toilet And Shower In Separate Rooms?
One is for dirty things! The other is for clean things! That about sums it up! If you see a listing with a “WC séparé,” that means that the toilet is in a room separate from the shower. Usually there’s a sink in a WC séparé, but not always. This is also a feature of older buildings.

6. Why Is Everyone Screaming Outside At 2 A.M.?
It’s summer, and since few people have air conditioners, everyone’s sleeping with the windows open — which means street noise. This effect is amplified in the older parts of the city, where the streets are narrower, so the sound ricochets between the walls, and in older buildings, which are often built around a courtyard — obviously, if your apartment faces the street, you’ll catch more noise than you would if it was on the back. Personally, I like it — the convivialité! — but if you don’t, I’d invest in ear plugs, or seek out an apartment that doesn’t look out on the street.

7. Is This Even Legal?
Probably?? But less likely so than previously? These days, Airbnb hosts are limited to renting out their primary residences 120 days per year — more than that, and they’re subject to fines. Note this only applies to “Entire Apartments” — if they’re just renting out a room, they can do it all year long.

8. What Am I Supposed To Cook On A Hot Plate?
Some Parisian kitchens are grand and full of gadgets, but most are not. Before booking, be sure what your kitchen will offer, and don’t assume it will include: a dishwasher, a full-sized fridge, an oven, a microwave, or anything else. Speaking of appliances, many will have neither a washing machine nor a dryer, and if they have a washing machine, they may very well not have a dryer — instead, you’ll find a wire drying rack or an electric drying rack in the bathroom.

9. Calls To The U.S. Are How Much?
French telecommunication costs are ridiculous — ridiculously cheap, especially if you’ve ever had the tremendous displeasure of paying for cable TV service in the U.S. I’ve paid under $100 a month for: wifi, cable service, landline service, and my cell phone, with free calls to the U.S. Can you imagine? Seriously? I hope everyone goes to France, if for no other reason than to experience life outside the Spectrum/Xfinity/etc. monopoly.

10. How Hot Does It Get?
The huge majority of French apartments won’t come with an air conditioner, though they are slowly becoming more popular. Every summer the past few years, we’ve had a week or two (usually in late July or early August) when it gets unbearably hot — north of 100º. The good news is that it’s not nearly as humid as many hot-weather American cities, and it usually cools down considerably overnight. The bad news is that the culture of subzero AC in malls and movie theaters isn’t exactly analogous – it’s usually cooler but not cold, if you know what I mean. The best option? Do like Parisians do and skip town for the beach or the mountains.

11. How Many Flights Of Stairs Am I Supposed To Climb?
Probably a maximum of seven. Don’t assume just because your apartment is on the sixth floor that it’ll have an elevator. And don’t assume that because there’s an elevator that it’ll be an American size — many are incredibly small, and will only fit a couple people comfortably.