TL;DR: My Shiu 25 Le Labo review is that it’s a sweeter, softer London (Poivre 23). Five stars. It’s gorgeous, lasting, and signature scent-tier.
I’ve been waiting to try Shiu 25, Le Labo’s new Beijing scent for its City Exclusive line, since it was announced — and today, August 1, was its debut. This is of course always a very special day on the Le Labo calendar: Its City Exclusive line is generally only available in the city that inspired each edition. Every August, each of the 19 City Exclusive scents are available at any Le Labo shop and online, for sample-size purchases. In September, you can buy not only samples but full bottles. After that, you’re stuck going to the city in question…or waiting until next August. (For more details, see this in-depth report on the City Exclusive Collection, ranking all 19 scents and providing cost, reviews, etc.)
I found myself walking by my neighborhood Le Labo earlier than expected — so I hadn’t done my prep on what it would smell like. As soon as I sampled it, I literally said that I smelled pepper. The rep said that she smells incense. Here’s what Le Labo says:
SHIU 25 is an homage to these contemplative refuges for the self. Built around Shiu, the Ho tree’s quieter expression, its essence is known to offer balance and inner peace. In this intentionally compact composition, ethereal iris notes and olibanum float above warm, anchoring woods, evoking an enveloping atmosphere of centered calm—an invitation to return to the timeless wisdom of the senses.
I told the rep that it smelled just like the London City Exclusive, which is extremely pepper-dominant — and I was pleased to see, once I returned home with my sample, that pink pepper is indeed in the middle of the mix of Shiu 25. I smell pepper, warm old woods, and white florals in the background. What I love most about Poivre 23 is its evolution — how it starts off so peppery and strong and then mellows into something quite soft and powdery. Shiu 25 doesn’t have that complexity — it loses a bit of that peppery edge over time, but after that it evolves much less on the skin.
I honestly didn’t expect to like Shiu 25. I didn’t love Osmanthus 19, the Seoul scent, and assumed this one would be similarly delicate. It’s not — it’s strong and clear. It’s also not what I expected when I heard about the incense — something rich and smoky. It’s London, just quieter. Not a feminine version of London, just something less dynamic. The drydown reminds me of Thé Noir, in its depth and longevity. I still smell it clearly after ten hours.
Shiu 25 has rocketed to (close to) the top of my City Exclusives favorite list. It makes sense, since London is my #2, just behind the smoky vanilla Paris (Vanille 44 — here’s a full review). Maybe it should take off a few points for being so similar to London? Honestly I can’t even be mad, about the similarities, when it all smells this perfect. I am going to have to think really hard about whether to buy a full-size bottle in September, because I love this, I’m definitely not going to China before the end of 2027, and I don’t think I can wait a year to smell it again.
Buy it online (only August and September! otherwise you need to go to Beijing!)
