Le Labo Osmanthus 19 Review: Maybe Just a Little Too Delicate

osmanthus 19 bottle

Welcome Osmanthus 19* to the Le Labo family! Released in 2024, Osmanthus 19 is officially the Kyoto City Exclusive scent, meaning that (except for August and September), you can only purchase it at a Le Labo shop in Kyoto. Personally I think that is just fine because my Osmanthus 19 review is that I personally did not, in fact, like it that much. Here’s why.

* Due to the City Exclusive rules, this link is only operational for sales in August and September. See below! 

The Best of Le Labo (non-City exclusive edition): In order of excellence

What Does Le Labo Osmanthus 19 Smell Like?

According to Le Labo: “First impressions are notes of incense and aromatic lavender, before the titular flower emerges… creamy and uplifting, with woody, resinous tonalities close behind. The composition is pure Kyoto, a nuanced scent for a town where traditional machiya houses sometimes harmonize with concrete and neon, where video game arcades can be found a stone’s throw from the gardens of emperors long past.”

That is some lovely copywriting!! It is not, however, what I smell when I smell Osmanthus 19. I’m not familiar with the IRL version of osmanthus, which is a collection of 30 flowering plants native, mostly, to eastern Asia. (More from Le Labo: “In early winter when most plants have gone dormant, gardeners await the arrival of the Osmanthus flower. Let your eyes wander and you’ll miss it: the momentary bloom of this delicate flower, treasured for its ethereal, sensual fragrance. Until it can surprise us again, we offer Osmanthus 19.”

So I can’t really saying if I smell osmanthus or not, never having had the pleasure. What I smell is:

  • a short-lived blast of something peppery — to the extent that I actually thought I’d sprayed London (Poivre) by accident
  • followed quickly by spring flowers (like lily of the valley)
  • literally nothing

 

This last part is the real problem.

osmanthus 19

Longevity and Projection

The only way I can justify the cost of Le Labo fragrances is by focusing on their longevity: One spritz of Poivre or Vanille 44 (my all-time favorite, though sometimes I’ll say the same thing about Poivre) and I’ll be smelling it on my clothes the rest of the day. I want a perfume with staying power. Twenty minutes after I sprayed it, I literally could not smell any trace of Osmanthus 19.

I really wonder if this is a physical limitation of mine, rather than the perfume’s. While I’ve generally had excellent luck with Le Labo fragrances, I simply cannot smell Another 13. I have gone to multiple boutiques, talked with the shop staff to be sure I hadn’t encountered a bad batch, etc. etc — I just can’t smell it. I wonder if Osmanthus 19’s second-stage scent is just outside of my own personal range.

That opening blast is nice enough but certainly no reason to spend into the mid-three figures.

Le Labo Osmanthus 19 vs Other Le Labo Fragrances

As I said above, the opening notes reminded me quite a bit of London/Poivre, though it doesn’t stay there.

This is the only City Exclusive I would not accept as a gift — I find it generally underwhelming. (Here’s a review of all the City Exclusive fragrances.)

If you’re shopping through Japan and South Korea, here’s a side-by-side comparison of the three available scents. I love Citron 28, like Gaiac, and — well, I think I’ve said my piece re: Osmanthus 19.

Fragrance City Key Notes Vibe / Style Longevity & Projection Availability Best For
Osmanthus 19 Kyoto Osmanthus blossom, jasmine, suede-apricot nuance Delicate, airy, soft floral Light; skin-close Kyoto exclusive; global online access in Aug–Sep Lovers of subtle, ethereal florals
Gaiac 10 Tokyo Guaiac wood, cedar, incense, musk Minimalist, meditative, woody Moderate; close to skin Tokyo exclusive; global online access in Aug–Sep Fans of quiet, grounding woods
Citron 28 Seoul Lemon, ginger, jasmine, musk Bright, energetic, citrusy-woody Moderate; fresh lift Seoul exclusive; global online access in Aug–Sep A lively citrus with depth for daily wear

Price and Availability

The pricing goes like this:

  • 15 ml for $175
  • 50 ml for $382
  • 100 ml for $545
  • 500 ml for $1780

 

It is only available in Le Labo’s two Kyoto locations — except for August and September, when samples and full bottles are available online.

Who Will Love Le Labo Osmanthus 19?

  • Primarily someone who can smell it (pas moi)

  • Maybe you really love osmanthus?

  • City Exclusives completists

Final Review: Osmanthus 19

It’s hard to review something I can only smell for a few minutes — and which costs as much as this does. I hope that other people, with a more rarefied sense of a delicate fragrance, love this perfume so much. It is not, however, for me.

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