We’re going to: the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne, one of the first gardens in the world dedicated solely to roses — and now regarded as one of Europe’s most beautiful!
Is the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne Worth Visiting?
It absolutely is — at least when the roses are in flower.
Here, you’ll find over 3,000 varieties of roses: bush roses, rambling roses, treelet roses, sarmentose, and climbing roses, which can be see curling around pergolas, arcs, garlands and towers.
If you don’t like roses, or learning about the rose-centric hobbies of certain department store heirs, you will not want to spend any time here.
How to Get to the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne from Paris
The roseraie is about three miles directly south of Paris in L’Haÿ-les-Roses, about halfway between the city center and the Orly airport.
There’s an easy way and a dumb way to get there.. The easy way is métro line 14 to L’Haÿ-les-Roses (yes, the town is named for the garden), then bus 286. It’s about 30 minutes from Bercy. You can also skip the bus and walk from the métro station, which adds about 20 minutes to the trip.
I took a slightly slower route: I took the RER B to Parc de Sceaux (well worth its own field trip). From Parc de Sceaux, I had a 20-minute walk — to the center of town. From there, I had another 20-minute walk to the garden itself. On the way back, I went the smart way (see above).
How Long Do You Need?
I was there for about two hours (I really like flowers), and this seemed like the right amount of time.
It would be easy to spend an hour in the garden and an hour having lunch at the very adorable on-site restaurant, Chez Jules — open for lunch until 15h and then as a salon de thé until 17h.
Best Time to Visit the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne
This one is easy: I’m sure there are reasons to go to this garden outside of the rose blooming season, but they are not apparent to me.
The garden is open from May 1 until late September, from 10h to 19h.
As far as the garden is concerned, the high-value time to visit is obviously when the roses are in bloom — generally late May or early June, and only for a period of a few weeks. The entry comes into effect only during this “période de floraison”: From May 1 until July 14, the entry fee is €4. (Usual French discounts for selected groups apply.) See more info here.
From July 15 until late September (usually the festival of European heritage), it’s free, outside of the cost of a guided visit.
The Roseraie du Val-de-Marne Vs. the Jardin des Plantes Vs. Giverny
These are all very specific, flower-centric experiences.
Giverny is undoubtedly the most famous: Monet’s iconic garden should be on the to-do list for every flower lover who visits Paris. There are downsides, though, including the crowds. The trip out is also finicky, though not impossible. Giverny is simply a must — it’s hard to argue otherwise.
The Jardin des Plantes, meanwhile, is more of an everyday pleasure — the sort of place that you could easily imagine walking through on the way to work. For that very reason, I recommend it as part of any visit to Paris. There’s something magical about this beautiful little pocket, within such easy access of central Paris.
The Roseraie du Val-de-Marne is its only little thing: certainly less essential than Monet’s garden at Giverny, and more of a hassle/special trip than the Jardin des Plantes. But for a few weeks in late May and June, though, it’s spectacular.
I wouldn’t think of it as an either/or: I would say instead that if you love flowers, and you’re here when it’s in bloom, it’s a must. That said, I would not skip Giverny to make time for it, and I would put it ahead of the Jardin des Plantes if you must choose between the two.
Three Must-Dos at the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne
- Literally breathing in all the beautiful flowers, at your leisure, and taking zillions of photographs
- Getting a leisurely lunch at Chez Jules
- Alternatively, bringing your own lunch from Paris and eat it on a bench, book in hand — picnicking is allowed here
A Bit About the History of the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne
That the garden exists at all is thanks to Jules Gravereaux, who retired at 48 after inheriting a portion of the Bon Marché fortune. In 1894, he began a collection that grew to include all the known varieties of roses at the time — around 8,000. In doing so, he became France’s go-to guy for bizarre, rose-centric detective projects — like determining the roses in the garden of Josephine de Beauharnais (that would be Napoleon’s first wife) at the Château de Malmaison — her rose collection was once the largest in the world. Gravereaux even spent four years studying Balkans hybridization techniques to create a uniquely perfumed flower — now known as the Rose à Parfum de l’Häy.
Now, there are just a fraction as many types of roses — around 2,000 — in the garden, but honestly you could have told me that each one was different and I would have believed you. It didn’t matter: All I could see were roses, all I could smell were roses — it’s just wonderful. I guess I’m one of those people who really like roses now? Who knew.
FAQ: The Roseraie du Val-de-Marne
1. Is the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne worth visiting from Paris? Yes, but only if you like roses, and only if you’re in town when they bloom
2. When are the roses in bloom at the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne? Late May and June — it depends on the weather.
3. How do you get to the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne by public transport? Expect to take line 14 to L’Haÿ-les-Roses, then bus 286 to the garden.
4. How long do you need to visit the Roseraie du Val-de-Marne? I would say a half-day if you’ll get lunch at Chez Jules.
5. Are there snacks? There’s a café with a limited menu but a lovely view of the garden, plus Chez Jules.
6. Final trip rating: 9.5 stars / 10
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