Paris Field Trip: Chateau de Vincennes

We’re going to: the Chateau de Vincennes, an incredible, historic castle (complete with a moat) accessible by métro! 

This is one of the crazy things about Paris: You can see a castle without leaving the city, or just barely: The Chateau de Vincennes is right across the city limits in Vincennes.

Is the Chateau de Vincennes Worth Visiting?

Yes. 

The Chateau de Vincennes isn’t a grand estate in the sense of the Chateau de Maisons: It is instead a fortress, with an intact moat, and a former royal residence. (It’s all very Game of Thrones — Winterfell, anyway.) It feels much older — and indeed, French kings have spent time here since the 12th century. It provides a fascinating and unique perspective on medieval French history that’s well worth exploring, along with the spectacular Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes.

How to Get to the Chateau de Maisons from Paris

It literally could not be easier. If you’re staying on the eastern side of Paris — in the 11th or 12th, certainly — the Chateau de Vincennes won’t be much farther than, say, the Louvre.

The Chateau de Vincennes metro stop is literally the last one on line 1, just across the city limit in Vincennes. From the Hotel de Ville, expect the trip to take around 25 minutes.

How Long Do You Need?

90 minutes is fine. If you’re there at the right time of year, you can hop over to the Parc Floral in the Bois de Vincennes for a proper half-day trip.

Best Time to Visit the Chateau de Vincennes

This is absolutely a year-round attraction, though I love it for a moody visit in the winter or autumn. On the day I visited, international tourists were clearly outnumbered by Frenchies. The crowds were extremely manageable, and not remotely similar to those at Versailles or even Chateau de Champs-sur-Marne.

The Chateau de Vincennes Vs. the Chateau de Champs-sur-Marne Vs. Versailles

I actually think the Palace of Versailles and the Chateau de Vincennes make a terrific two-part exploration of French royal living.

The Chateau de Vincennes had its first royal resident in the form of Louis VII in 1178. For hundreds of years forward, a succession of French kings used it as a hunting lodge and retreat, and then as a fortress refuge in times of social upheaval.

Versailles is the second part of this story: the genre-defining palace home to French kings from 1682, when Louis XIV moved the royal court there. The incredible beauty, luxury, and expense stands in contrast to the rough-hewn austerity of Vincennes.

Together, they tell an amazing story. I would prioritize Versailles, then Vincennes, and then add on a fancy estate, only if time and interest permit.

Three Must-Dos at the Chateau de Vincennes

• Explore the 13th-century donjon, the medieval keep (this is the safest part of the castle) — it’s Europe’s tallest!
• Visit the stunning Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes, which was modeled on the other Sainte-Chapelle, on the Ile de la Cité, and is beautiful — you can climb up to an overlook for a better view of both the entire cathedral and the rosette window. Try for a sunny day so the stained glass windows are well illuminated
• Try to get your head around near a millennium of French history, from Louis VII to Henry V to the Revolution to its occupation by German forces during WWII

A Bit About the History of the Chateau de Vincennes

There’s too much history here to properly recount all of it, but: Like Versailles, the castle began its life as Louis VII’s royal hunting lodge, in the middle of what used to be a forest. It was reinforced in the 14th century, with the addition of the donjon, or keep, what was then the “tallest medieval fortified structure” in Europe.

I did not see a single mention of this when I visited, but this is where Henry “Once more unto the breach, dear friends” V of England/100 Years’ War fame died in 1422, from dysentery contracted while laying siege to Meaux, about 35 miles northeast of Paris.

Another famous death here: the Louis Antoine de Bourbon, the Duke of Enghien, whose execution in 1804 here hardened feelings against Napoleon and stirred dissent. Enghien, who had been born in another castle — the Chateau de Chantilly, north of Paris and definitely more of a palace-type chateau — and then murdered in the moat that surrounds the Chateau de Vincennes. His death is mentioned in War and Peace: 

The group about Mortemart immediately began discussing the murder of the duc d’Enghien. After the murder of the Duc, even the most partial ceased to regard [Napoleon] as a hero. If to some people he ever was a hero, after the murder of the duc there was one martyr more in heaven and one hero less on earth.”

The vicomte said that the duc d’Enghien had perished by his own magnanimity, and that there were particular reasons for Buonaparte’s hatred of him.(…) It was an anecdote, then current, to the effect that the duc d’Enghien had gone secretly to Paris to visit Mademoiselle George; that at her house he came upon Bonaparte, who also enjoyed the famous actress’ favors, and that in his presence Napoleon happened to fall into one of the fainting fits to which he was subject, and was thus at the Duc’s mercy. The latter spared him, and this magnanimity Bonaparte subsequently repaid by death. The story was very pretty and interesting, especially at the point where the rivals suddenly recognized one another; and the ladies looked agitated. 

So basically these two men — one an emperor, the other the last heir of a royal line — ran into each other at their mistress’s and everyone freaked out. This seems to me like an exceptionally French problem.

The Duke of Enghien isn’t even the only historical figure to be executed in the moat: The Dutch-born spy for the Germans, Mata Hari, was killed here in 1917.

The castle also had its share of illustrious captives, most notably the Marquis de Sade. (A precise description of the Marquis via the Telegraph: “[His] interests were, according to a French text: “Torture, murder, incest, rape, etc.” It’s the “etc” which intrigues.” Not sure “intriguing” is the right word there, but OK.) From a letter to his wife: “you will deeply put me in your debt by obtaining permission for me to take the air, because I tell you a thousand times that I am suffering horribly by lack of exercise and that it is a disgrace to deprive someone of the benefits belonging to every creature.”

The Chateau de Vincennes, in About 10 Words:

A terrific morning trip (and one kids would love). 8.5 stars out of 10.

FAQ: The Chateau de Vincennes

1. Is Château de Vincennes inside Paris? Not precisely, but almost — it’s across the border in Vincennes.

2. How much does it cost to visit Château de Vincennes? €13.

3. Can you climb the tower at Château de Vincennes? Yes! Though note steps are uneven and the way is long. Guided tours are the best way to see it.

4. What is the Sainte-Chapelle de Vincennes? Right there within the castle grounds.

5. Is Château de Vincennes good for children? Absolutely.

6. Is Château de Vincennes crowded? It’s a popular spot for school groups, but not at all comparable to Versailles or other historic castles near and around Paris.